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Colorado River Rafting
The Best in the West for
Scenic Floats and Raging Whitewater
By Monique Cole
Despite its semi-arid climate, Colorado
is the birthplace of many of the West's greatest rivers, giving
it the nicknames "Mother of Rivers" and the "Headwaters
State." The majestic Rocky Mountains collect snow all winter
and during spring run-off, rivulets, streams, and waterfalls
flow down every gully and canyon. The water that is enjoyed by
skiers in its frozen form, now becomes a playground for kayakers,
fishermen, and rafters. Colorado's top rafting runs can satisfy
any appetite, from scenic floats and gold medal trout fishing
to bucking bronco rapids.
Animas
The name "Animas"
translates to "soul" or "spirit" in Spanish,
and this river has plenty of both. Starting high in the San Juans,
the Animas plummets 2,000 feet into the town of Durango. Many
tourists view the spectacular Animas Valley via US 550, the Million
Dollar Highway, others from the vantage of the narrow gauge railroad
that runs between Silverton and Durango. But the more adventurous
take to the river itself.
Upper Animas
Class III-V Full day
At 9,300 feet this run has the highest put-in point of any rafting
run in the country, according to Tom Klema, owner of Peregrine
Outfitters, who says the Upper Animas combines "whitewater
thrills and alpine spectacle." As the river drops a whopping
85 feet per mile, it creates almost continuous Class III-IV rapids
and three Class V drops. Exhausted by their excitement, rafters
can relax as they end their day traveling back to Durango on
the historic narrow gauge railroad.
Animas Through Durango
Class II-III 2-hour, Half-day
It may not sound like a wilderness adventure, but by running
the Animas River through the town of Durango you actually see
a lot of flora and fauna, including excellent bird watching.
Children as young as four years old may be allowed to get a introduction
to whitewater on lower flow days.
Arkansas River
The rafting companies that crowd
both sides of the highway from Buena Vista to Salida attest to
the popularity of the Arkansas River. Rafters and kayakers flock
to the Arkansas for good reason. Born of the snows atop 14,000-foot
peaks, including Colorado's highest, Mount Elbert, the Arkansas
has whitewater that ranges from sedate to terrifying.
The Numbers
Class IV Half, full day
Consistent Class IV rapids make this stretch a favorite with
thrill-seeking rafters and a world-class venue for kayak rodeo
competitions. The whitewater is so relentless that some outfitters
observe how their clients perform on the tamer Browns Canyon
run before they allow them in the Numbers.
Browns Canyon
Class III-IV Half, full day
The Arkansas cuts its way through granite cliffs creating Browns
Canyon and rapids like the ominously named Widow Maker and Seidel's
Suckhole. In peak season up to 450 rafts per day play bumper
boat through Brown's Canyon, one of the nation's most popular
whitewater runs. Experienced rafters may want to go up or downstream
from Browns Canyon to escape the throngs in the more difficult
waters.
Salida/Cotopaxi/Parkdale
Class II-III Half, full day
Follow the course of FIBArk, a kayak and canoe race that brings
hundreds of boaters to Salida each year. The oldest whitewater
festival in the U.S., FIBArk was founded in 1949 by two boaters
who challenged one another to a 56-mile race from Salida to Canon
City to determine who would be "First in Boating on the
Arkansas" -- thus the name. If you take out at Cotopaxi
or Parkdale before the treacherous Royal Gorge, you will be treated
to fun, never terrifying rapids and views of the snow-covered
Sangre de Cristo peaks.
Royal Gorge
Class IV-V Half, full day
Perhaps the best view of Royal Gorge, the world's highest suspension
bridge, is from the river below. However, rafters may be too
distracted by rapids like Sunshine Falls, Sledgehammer, The Wall,
Corner Pocket, and Squeeze Box to notice the bridge as they bounce
through the narrow, 1,000-foot deep, 9-mile long gorge.
Colorado River
From its headwaters high in
the Rockies, the "Mighty Colorado" flows 1,440 miles
to the Gulf of California in Mexico. Along the way, it provides
electricity for more than 6 million people, irrigates 7.2 percent
of the nation's farmlands, and brings water to the homes of some
15 million people. But the Colorado is also about fun. Over 13
million people per year play on the Colorado's waters at such
recreational meccas as Lake Powell and the Grand Canyon.
Little Gore Canyon
Class II-III (with high water)
1-4 days
The Mighty Colorado is a mere baby as it flows through Little
Gore Canyon close to its birthplace in Rocky Mountain National
Park. Mellow whitewater and stops at a riverside natural hot
springs and fossilized dinosaur tracks make this trip a winner
with kids.
Horsethief and Ruby Canyons
Class I-II 1-2 days
Towers of black schist rise from the water, polished and carved
into phantasmagoric shapes by its erosive force. Above, layers
of cream- and orange-streaked sandstone provide a contrasting
backdrop. The tranquil water allows rafters of all ages to search
the sandstone walls for arches and windows.
Westwater Canyon
Class III-IV 2-3 days
Farther west the Colorado narrows, creating more thrilling rapids
like Skull and Funnel Falls. The water is squeezed through this
tight canyon filled with black pre-Cambrian lava composite rock.
After its fury, the river calms before the take-out at the ghost
town of Cisco in Utah. Ironically, Westwater Canyon is easier
to run at high water and is most challenging in July and August.
Gunnison River
The Gunnison is a hard-working
river. In the short, 140-mile trip between its headwaters in
the Elk Mountains and its confluence with the Colorado River
near Grand Junction, its water is used and recycled through the
largest series of dams and reservoirs in the state. But where
the river flows freely through the Black Canyon of the Gunnison
and the Gunnison Gorge, it is a beautiful emerald green and rich
with trout. Steep, sheer cliffs prevent man's encroachment of
highways and railroads, permitting access to the river only by
switch-backing foot trails.
Gunnison Gorge
Class II-III 1-3 days
Downstream of the world famous Black Canyon of the Gunnison,
the same geology greets rafters floating through the Gunnison
Gorge where peregrine falcons appear out of the narrow ribbon
of blue sky. This is prime trout habitat with more than 650 trout
per mile that are longer than 16 inches and heavier than two
pounds. The Gorge is only accessible by foot and horseback, so
rafters are treated to a unique stretch of secluded wilderness.
Dolores River
The 2,500-foot-deep canyons
of the Dolores are so deep that they hid outlaws the likes of
Butch Cassidy and his Wild Bunch after holding up a bank in Telluride
in 1889. You can still get lost in the wilderness of the Dolores,
where Anasazi ruins send you back in time and secluded campsites
make you forget civilization.
Ponderosa Gorge to Lower Gateway
Canyon
Class II-IV+ 3 days
This section ranks with the Grand Canyon and Middle Fork of the
Salmon River as one of the top three river runs in the country
and offers more uninterrupted miles of wilderness than any other
trip in the Lower 48.
Beginning in the Bear Mountains high country, the Dolores flows
past giant Ponderosa Pines, then through towering red sandstone
walls of Slickrock Canyon. On this 50-mile trip rafters float
through several moderate (Class II-III) rapids, plus one of the
West's most notorious drops, Snaggletooth (Class IV+).
Poudre
"Don't Damn the Poudre"
pleads a bumper sticker on the cars of many Colorado river rats.
The Poudre is the only Front Range river to escape damming to
quench the incredible thirst of the area's booming population.
This free-flowing status has made it Colorado's only designated
National Wild and Scenic River. From its source within Rocky
Mountain National Park, it plummets through a narrow, rocky canyon
into Fort Collins.
Mishawaka Falls
Class III-IV Half-day
Swift currents, narrow channels, and steep plunges make for a
thrilling day on the river. Some outfitters stop for a picnic
lunch on the deck of the Mishawaka Inn overlooking the river.
Lower Poudre
Class II-III Half-day
Perfect for families and first-timers, this section of the Poudre
has fun rapids, along with an opportunity to view wildlife. A
careful eye may capture bighorn sheep, bald eagles, black bear,
and rock climbers.
Yampa River
Beaver and river otters share
the Yampa River with four of Colorado's last surviving native
fish species while bald and golden eagles soar above. Cool for
desert canyons, June high temperatures average in the low 80s
and cottonwood and box elder trees provide ample shade. White
Weber sandstone with black vertical streaks create striking cathedrals
like Tiger Rock.
Dinosaur National Monument
Class III-IV+ 4-5 days
The Yampa River through Dinosaur National Monument is "a
magic carpet that runs for about eight weeks," says Tom
Kleinschnitz, owner of Adventure Bound River Expeditions. With
no major dams to control its flow, the Yampa rages from May until
early July. The rapids, which can reach Class V proportions in
high water, are thrilling and the river's big sweeping turns
are unique.
(Sidebar)
Whitewater Difficulty Ratings
The difficulty of whitewater runs is rated by a system of
standard classes. Not too long ago, Class V rapids were deemed
un-runnable, but are now commonly traveled by rafts thanks to
the progress of technology and guiding expertise. And kayakers
are now even launching themselves over Class VI waterfalls. The
various classes are defined below:
- Class I Flat water, no rapids
- Class II Small riffles on the water,
wide-open passages
- Class III Difficult waves, narrow passages
- Class IV Very difficult long, boiling
rapids. Helmet and previous rafting experience may be required
- Class V Extremely difficult, big, violent
drops. Helmet and previous experience required
- Class VI Not runnable in a raft, but
hard-core kayakers may test their mettle
(Sidebar)
Choosing an Outfitter
Just as there are many excellent
river runs in Colorado, there are also many companies offering
commercial trips. River management agencies award permits to
commercial rafting companies according to safety and training
standards. The Colorado River Outfitters Association requires
its members to live up to even more rigorous standards. For a
list of members and contact information, call CROA at 303-369-4632.
Here are some tips and questions to
ask when choosing a rafting company courtesy of the Arkansas
River Outfitters Association:
- How long has the company been in business?
Contact the agencies that issue them permits to verify the information
and ask if they have received any complaints or citations.
- What experience level and what type
of safety, rescue and first aid training do the guides have?
- What type of equipment does the outfitter
use? Some sections of rivers require that wetsuits, helmets and
self-bailing rafts are used at certain water levels.
- What is included in the price? Most
outfitters provide lunch, flotation devices, helmets, and transportation
to the put-in site and back to the outfitter's office. Some provide
wetsuits and boots, while others may charge a small rental fee.
- Word of mouth is the best recommendation.
Ask friends and neighbors about their rafting experiences and
check with the local Chambers of Commerce.
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