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The Other Side of Aloha
By Monique Cole
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If all you do on your trip to Hawaii
is sip mai tais by the hotel pool, you might as well have gone
to Phoenix. There's nothing wrong with chaise lounging, it's
just so much more satisfying after a day of delving into the
seldom explored corners of paradise.
Each island has a full menu of delectable
outdoor adventures - enough to fill a lifetime's worth of vacations
- but I've narrowed the list down to three activities on three
islands.
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photo ©Phil Mislinski
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On Oahu, you'll pedal along a deserted
coastline or through lush green valleys while feasting on wild
guavas and passion fruit. On Maui, you'll get up-close and personal
with 40-ton humpback whales from the vantage point of a sea kayak.
And on Kauai unique freshwater fishing experiences await, including
the only peacock bass found outside of South America and Florida.
First Things First
The hardest part of planning
a Hawaiian vacation is deciding which island or islands you want
to visit. Each has its own merits and unique flavor. Oahu has
the highest population of residents and visitors, with a vibrant
city full of culture and nightlife. Still, it's easy to get away
from the hustle and bustle. Kauai is where you should head if
you want more serenity and seclusion. Maui is the second most
popular island for tourists, falling somewhere between Oahu and
Kauai on the crowds-to-seclusion scale.
The Goods
Off-road on Oahu
The mountain biking on Oahu
is unlike anywhere else. On the single-tracks you'll find lots
of short steep climbs, followed by gnarly drops, razor's edge
ridgelines and off-camber turns with scary drop-offs. There are
no ski-lift rides up and no long, snaking downhills. You'll earn
every mile - lucky thing the rewards are so great.
"You have to be more used to riding
over roots and rocks and powder dirt," says Leonard Nakahashi,
a commercial photographer who organizes group rides each Sunday.
Nakahashi won't spill the beans about
his favorite playground (it's not technically open to the general
public), but his second favorite place is the Kahuku Motocross
Track. Here you'll find an interconnecting maze of really fast
single-track and dirt road, blessed with canted turns, fun whoop-de-dos
and panoramic views of the North Shore. A fee is charged on weekends
and public access is limited during the week because of military
practice maneuvers.
The favorite trail of John Alford, guidebook
author and bike tour operator, is Maunawili. It's a 10-mile (one-way)
ribbon of trail that winds in and out of the fluted cliffs of
the Koolaus. Looking makai (toward the sea), you'll get sweeping
views of Kailua and Waimanalo. If you know what you're looking
for, guavas and lilikoi (passion fruit) can supplement
your trail snacks.
Less adroit mountain bikers should head
to the dirt road around Kaena Point, which is closed to vehicle
traffic. Black lava rock and white sand provide stark contrast
on this arid ride. Albatross nest at the point and in the winter
you may see humpback whales just off-shore.
Details:
Don't leave home without a copy of "Mountain Biking the
Hawaiian Islands" by John Alford (Ohana Publishing, 2000),
which includes beta on all the rides mentioned here, along with
bike shops offering rentals. Just give Nakahashi a call (808-524-3195)
and you can tag along with the locals on their Sunday ride. Guided
and all-inclusive off-road tours are available through Bike Hawaii
(1-877-MTB-RIDE; www.bikehawaii.com).
Whale Watching on Maui
Humans aren't the only mammals
who head to Hawaii to escape winter's chill. From November through
May, nearly 3,500 humpback whales gather in the calm, warm waters
between Maui, Lanai and Molokai. They have traveled from as far
away as Alaska to mate and calve.
From southwestern Maui, called by some
the "tourist coast," you'll see the animals spouting,
breaching and flaunting their flukes nearly every time you look
to sea. According to federal law, humans must not approach closer
than 100 yards from the endangered animals. But these curious
and gentle giants haven't heard about the law and often approach
humans.
A 12- to 15-foot sea kayak is a lot
more intimate than the motorized boats of other whale watching
tours, says Roger Simonot, owner of South Pacific Kayaks &
Outfitters. Last winter a whale breached about 200 yards away
from his wife Karen Robinson, then swam over and just hung out
next to her kayak for several minutes. "Their sheer size
can be intimidating," Simonot says, "but they're really
gentle."
Closer to shore, you'll likely see green
sea turtles and clouds of colorful reef fish. Bottlenose and
spinner dolphins frequent the south shore, especially in summer
and fall. Summer is also a good time for experienced paddlers
to tour the lush waterfall-filled Hana Coast. The surf can be
treacherous in the winter along all of Hawaii's north coasts.
Most local paddlers finish their day
by 11 a.m. to avoid getting caught in strong winds. "The
wind is more of a problem on Maui than anywhere else because
it whips across the inlet," says Audrey Sutherland, guidebook
author and Hawaiian paddling legend.
Details:
Do-it-yourselfers should invest in the comprehensive guidebook
"Paddling Hawaii," by Audrey Sutherland (University
of Hawaii Press, 1998). South Pacific Kayaks and Outfitters in
Kihei is a full-service shop, offering sales, rentals ($30/day
or $155/week for single hardshell kayaks) and tours ($59 for
an all-inclusive whale watching and snorkeling tour). 1-800-776-2326;
www.southpacifickayaks.com. You might find cheaper rentals right
on the beach in Kaanapali.
Freshwater Fishing on Kauai
When most people think of fishing
in Hawaii they have visions of huge swordfish and tuna pulled
from the Big Blue. But the islands also have inland streams and
reservoirs, set in stunning tropical valleys. Here, you'll find
rainbow trout and even peacock bass - and you don't have to worry
about chumming the fish from getting seasick.
"A lot of fisherman on the mainland
don't see anything about freshwater fishing in Hawaii,"
says LeRoy Sakaguchi of Kauai Aquatics. "They are really
surprised."
There's only one native fish in the
streams of Hawaii, the bottom feeding oopu. So, the State Division
of Aquatics (DAR) began introducing game fish in the 1950s. When
the peacock bass was introduced in 1957, Hawaii became the only
place to find the tough-fighting fish outside of South America.
Smallmouthed and largemouthed bass are also found in Kauai's
waters.
The catch is that you can only get to
the bass over private land, necessitating an outfitter. Sakaguchi's
company has exclusive access to the huge and highly productive
424-acre Waita Reservoir. Last September a couple from Napa Valley,
California, caught over 200 bass there in one day from Sakaguchi's
boat. But, as required, they practiced CPR on the fish - "catch,
photograph and release."
If you can't handle the price tag for
a bass fishing outfitter (about $130 half-day; $240 full day),
perhaps you should try trout fishing Hawaiian style. At about
4,000 feet Kokee State Park is a great place to cool off. The
public fishing area includes 15 miles of fishable streams and
ditches and a 15-acre reservoir. The streams are typically narrow
and the rainforest vegetation dense, making flyfishing particularly
challenging. Open season is in August and September (check with
the DAR for exact dates) with a limit of seven fish per person
per day.
Details:
For freshwater fishing regulations and to get a license, contact
DAR (808-587-0109; www.ehawaiigov.org/main/mck-cgi/fresh_main_page.cgi).
The three bass outfitters on Kauai are Kauai Freshwater Aquatics
(808-245-7358; www.trykauai.com/Kauai_Freshwater_Fishing.html),
JJ's Big Bass Tours (808-332-9219) and Cast & Catch Freshwater
Bass Guides (808-332-9707).
Grubs & Hubs
Going to the grocery store in
Hawaii can be a multi-cultural culinary experience. You'll find
tako poke (a mix of octopus, seaweed and green onions), salty
taro chips (made from the same root as poi) and rolls of sushi,
often cheaper than fried chicken. Assemble your own pupu platter,
then head to the nearest beachpark for the best oceanside dining
under $10 in town.
If you want hot food, keep a lookout
for "plate lunch" establishments. This island-style
fast food is perfect for carbo-loading because plates often come
with two scoops of white rice and macaroni salad. Featured meats
might include teriyaki beef, shoyu chicken, Korean kal bi ribs
or even fresh grilled ahi.
The Gear
Mountain bikes should have front
suspension at the very minimum and if you're riding through dry
areas with kiawe trees (thorny relatives of the mesquite), Slime
or tire liners will help protect against flats.
Maui's notorious wind makes inflatable
kayaks downright dangerous because they don't have rudders and
are not streamlined. Unless you have a folding kayak, plan on
renting a hardshell kayak when you get there.
If you're bass fishing on Kauai, your
outfitter will supply everything you need - rods, tackle, lures
and live bait. The favorite trout bait of local fisherfolk is
a dough made from ground up fish pellets (that's what they're
raised on) mixed with flour.
Info box
Thousands of miles of open Pacific
Ocean stretch out from Hawaii in all directions. This geographic
isolation has created rich and singular collection of plants
and animals. Of the eight main Hawaiian Islands, six are open
to visitors where public access to 723 linear miles of coastline
is guaranteed by state law. Daily temperatures average in the
low 70s in the winter and upper 70s in the summer, creating an
ideal vacation climate year-round. And if you don't like the
weather where you are, you can often find different weather elsewhere
on the island.
Red Tape
Alas, you can't just load the SUV with all your toys and
drive to Hawaii. Luckily, local outfitters and rental shops can
provide the equipment you need. Or, you can bring your beloved
bike along as oversized baggage, at a cost of about $100-$150
roundtrip between the Hawaii and the Mainland (that's what Hawaiians
call the rest of the U.S.). In light of increased airport security,
it's safest to check your favorite fishing rod in your baggage,
along with all other knives and tools, rather than trying to
carry it on.
As far as health goes, you don't have
to worry about rabies, snakes, bears, wolves, or poison ivy,
oak or sumac. Your biggest threat from the animal kingdom is
the mosquito, which carries dengue fever. Back in October, health
officials were trying to contain an outbreak on Maui. This particular
strain is relatively innocuous, causing symptoms similar to a
bad case of the flu. Still, you should apply bug repellant and
consider long sleeves and pants when venturing into bug country.
Also, lurking in Hawaii's freshwater are the parasite giardia
and the more exotic bacteria leptospira, both of which cause
illness in humans. Be sure to filter all water before drinking,
no matter how fresh it looks.
Ways & Means
Most major airlines as well as Hawaiian and Aloha offer direct
flights from the Mainland to both Honolulu International Airport
on Oahu and Kahului Airport on Maui. United has one direct flight
daily from Los Angeles to Lihue on Kauai. Otherwise, you'll need
to hop on an inter-island flight to get to Kauai. Ferry travel
is only available between the islands of Maui, Molokai and Lanai.
Late spring and early fall are often the least expensive times
to travel, just avoid any holidays.
Vacation packages including airfare,
hotel and rental car are sometimes cheaper than buying airfare
alone (look for ads in your newspaper's travel section). To craft
your own package far from the tourist meccas, check out the Hawaii
Visitors and Convention Bureau's extensive vacation planner and
searchable web site (1-800-GoHawaii; www.gohawaii.com).
Because public transportation is limited
and time-consuming, you'll probably want to rent a vehicle. Some
kayak rental places will provide car-top carriers, but mountain
bikes will have to be stowed within your vehicle - make sure
you get one big enough. NEVER leave valuables in your parked
car - they will get ripped off, especially at beach parks and
trailheads.
Base Camp
Groups and families can save
big bucks in restaurant bills by staying in condos or vacation
homes with kitchens. Travelers on a budget might want to look
into shared accommodations at the Banana Bungalow Maui Hostel
($16/night; 1-800-8Hostel; www.mauihostel.com), Backpackers Vacation
Inn on the North Shore of Oahu ($15/night; 808-638-7838; backpackers-hawaii.com),
or the Kapaa BeachHouse on Kauai ($20/night; (808)-822-3424;
www.kauai-blue-lagoon.com). Even more hostels can be found by
searching under "Hawaii" at www.hostels.com. On Kauai,
Kokee Lodge offers rustic rental cabins right in the middle of
the park sleeping 3-6 people for $35-$45 per night. Reserve 3
months to a year in advance (808-335-6061).
Sightseeing
If you want to watch the world's
best surfers ride waves three stories high, head to Oahu's North
Shore during a big winter swell (for spectators only unless you
are one of those experts - or have a death wish). Waikiki has
the best nightlife - check the Honolulu Weekly for listings of
everything from raves to contemporary Hawaiian music. For culture
and history, head to the Bishop Museum, Pearl Harbor Memorial
and the River Street Pedestrian Mall in Honolulu's Chinatown.
On Kauai, the Na Pali coastline's dramatic
sea cliffs are famous for good reason - the Kalalau hiking trail
is very rugged, but you can also take a helicopter tour or paddle
a sea kayak. Lesser known is the hard-to-find "Secret Beach,"
an idyllic setting for the island's nudists and hippie community
near Kalihiwai. Also, don't miss Waimea Canyon, called the "Grand
Canyon of the Pacific."
When the wind picks up on Maui, go watch
the kite surfers at Kite Beach near Kahului Airport (where you
can also get a lesson) or the world's best windsurfers at Hookipa
(you won't get lessons here - just a butt-kicking if you attempt
to sail out). For scenic drives, brave the traffic on the winding
road to Hana, or catch the sunrise atop 10,000-foot Haleakala.
The Maui Ocean Center's acrylic tunnel offers the island's best
fish viewing without getting wet. And the Old Lahaina Luau offers
a traditional feast, without the corny antics of other tourist-fests.
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